Thursday, April 30, 2009

Vogue Get's In: Diversity Is Afoot!

First I want to say I procrastinate like nobody's business. I wanted to write about this issue when first I saw it, but didn't. Oh well. I'm working on it.

Liya Kebede on the cover. Wow. Vogue is making unprecedented history and I love it! Even without a brown face on the cover this would have been a pretty amazing issue.




I must admit I was bummed Chanel Iman wasn't on the cover as she's my favorite. But I guess Liya is Anna's favorite and I can't hate. But if we're talking about models of the moment than surely Chanel has a greater presence in the current fashion scene. Aside from Liya's Estee Lauder campaign, which is no doubt a huge accomplishment, I've not seen much of her since 2008. Chanel on the other hand is all over the place. Most recently I caught her on the cover of Lula's May issue and on ID's May cover. She's also been featured in five other editorials since the start of the year along with campaigns and working the shows. Chanel is also co-hosting the revised House of Style with Bar Rafaeli.


And talking about diversification. This issue has a sprinkling of some of my most favorite models. Linda, Naomi, Christy and Iman. Three or four pages in and Elle McPherson is featured in a new Revlon ad for a new Age Defying foundation whose design is very reminiscent of YSL's Perfect Touch launched in 2006. I must admit it's one of my favorite foundations. Inspired by the lines highly popular Touche Eclat, Perfect Touch brightens and leaves the skin feeling light, soft and illuminated. I'll have to check out Revlon's version to see how it compares. Depending on where you purchase your Vogue you may or may not have this ad. But, anyway, I digress.

Naomi takes us on an exhibition through her New York apartment turned closet as she "cleans the cobwebs". Some pieces are donated to museums, some are gifted to fashion schools and some are held for auction. She even keeps some pieces as inspiration for her clothing line, 284, launched in Brazil.
Naomi also shares her opinion at a roundtable luncheon with iconic models Lauren Hutton, Iman and Paulina Porizkova; fashion fixtures Hillary Rhoda and Caroline Trentini and newcomer Karlie Kloss. Lauren schools on the business of modeling in the 70's, Iman celebrates the current monster walkers Sesilee Lopez and Raquel Zimmerman and Karlie espouses on the demands of the business on today's top model.

And then there's Daria. Truth be told, I didn't much care for Daria Werbowy upon her arrival in the late 90's. She was part of a trend of girls I deemed unfantastic, personality-free, deer-in-headlights imposters. Harsh I know. My assessment was more about the decline of the true supermodel era than the debasement of the undeniable beauty this new crop of models possessed. In a beautiful spread, shot by David Simms, Daria's' true talent is captured as a compelling fashion chameleon. What I like most about the spread is it's mix of studio and location shots. A little less typical.
Natalia Vodianova appears on the three-page pullout cover and in an editorial depicting legendary models of yore.



Model Lakshmi Menon is cast in a stunningly colorful and romantic spread set in her hometown of Goa. What I like most about her inclusion is she's not mainstreams' idea of an Indian woman. Her deep bronzed skin is a truer reflection of the diverse hues inherit in Indian society. Lakshmi appears on the cover of Vogue India's May edition.


Also in this issue:
* A cute little flash of Kanye West and his affection for the color red.
* A charming editorial of models with their better halves. Check out Greg Andrews, Doutzen Kroes adorably handsome dj boyfriend.
* Features and snapshots of Karen Elson, "model as muse" Kate Moss, Marc Jacobs, cover model Jourdan Dunn, 90's glamazon Kristen McMenamy, Amber Valletta , Carolyn Murphy and Gisele B.

I always love the group covers. Some of my favorites.








Sunday, March 29, 2009

Models On Top

Since the now landmark, all black issue of Italian Vogue, the prominence of Black models can be seen all over the place. Three models stand above the fray.

Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn and Sessilee Lopez are three young ladies not old enough to buy liquor (at least not here in the states) but are commanding alot of attention in a very adult business.

In the 70's & 80's black models were all over the runways. Yves Saint Laurent was known for his preference of using Black models in his shows. It was a trend popular among other European and American designers. At the time Calvin Klein, Donna Karan & Anna Sui all showed their collections with a multi-cultural mix of models often including asians and latinas.

In the 90's the supermodel was born. Out of this original group only one was black and that was Naomi Campbell. I believe this is when we started to see fewer Blacks on the runways. As the worlds attention focused on a small group of priviledged pretty faces, most of those being white, advertisers tastes began to reflect thoses of the masses. It soon came to pass the only Black faces being seen belonged to Campbell, Tyra Banks, Beverly Peele & Kiara Kabukuru.


Chanel Iman is probably the highest paid of this new guard of Black models. At least according to models.com . Ms Iman is building herself an impressive career. She's a favorite at Dior and Chanel runway and is an editorial darling. She can also be seen in ads for Gap, Lord & Taylor and Beneton.

Sessilee has become a recent favorite of mine. Maybe because we share the same chocolatey brown complexion! Something else I love about her is the spunky attitude she possesses. And when she's on the runway she has this quiet confidence that adds a sense of grace and opulence to anything she's wearing. Ms. Lopez can currently be seen in Barney's, Calvin Klein and Gap ads.

Jourdan Dunn is a separate beast altogether. Born in London, this brit exudes intelligence, confidence and elegance. I truly believe in the next few years Jourdan Dunn will become a worldwide household name. Jourdan was the first Black model to walk Prada in 10 years since Naomi Campbell. That is no small feat! Jourdan is all over the place. She can be seen in ads for Top Shop, Beneton & Gap.

Friday, March 27, 2009

American Vogue: Once You Go Black...





I was stunned, to say the least, when I saw Michelle Obama on the cover of Vogue's March cover. It made sense in a way considering how many covers our first family has graced. I figured Anna Wintour is jumping on the bandwagon in an attempt to quiet the magazines long standing criticism on its failure to represent Black women.

So imagine my surprise upon seeing April's cover featuring Beyonce. Wow! I didn't know what to think. I wondered: is this a sign of what's to come? Has American Vogue turned over a new leaf? Well, probably not.

Although the appearance of Black faces on two consecutive covers is unprecedented, I don't believe this marks a turning point for the magazine. Once inside, the old story continues - all the features and editorials are dominated almost entirely by white women. Truth be told, I do believe a conscious effort has been made to include more women of color. Unfortunately all other ethnicity's have been excluded. I can't recall one Asian or Latin model in either of the recent two issues. So much for progress.

I have a feeling this new interest in diversification is the aftermath of Italian Vogue's All Black Issue.
Fashion insiders are all too familiar with the eurocentric dominance and inherit racism within the industry. As a young model I remember being struck with the reality that black models simply don't get as much work as their white counterparts. There are of course exceptions but they are few and far between.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Dolce & Gabbana - Put On A New Face





As if Dolce & Gabanna didn't already have a full artillery for the uber-chic sex siren with tiny waisted, high hemmed fashion and seductive fragrances, they've decided to give her a face to match.

Super-makeup artist, Pat McGrath, was enlisted to create the new line of lipsticks and powders. Prices start around $29 for nail varnish and cap at $60 for foundation. If McGrath is able to weave the same magic into this line as she did for Armani, then Dolce & Gabanna will have a winner. The Armani collection is known for its sumptuous textures and rich hues and consists of a very edited selection of skincare, color and brushes. The Dolce & Gabanna lipsticks have names like "Devil" and "Drama" with eyeshadows christened "Guilty" and "Elegance".

Scarlett Johansson was chosen as the official spokesmodel and made appearences with the dynamic duo during fashion week in Milan for the launch. In this ad Scarlett wears a signature Dolce face, sans red lip. The smoldering, dark-rimmed eye, light apricot cheek and almost nude tangerine lip mark a clean start. Although some ads do show Johansson in the signature brick red lip we've come to expect.

The new line will be sold at La Rinascente in Milan, Selfridges in London and Saks Fifth Avenue here in the US.