Sunday, March 29, 2009

Models On Top

Since the now landmark, all black issue of Italian Vogue, the prominence of Black models can be seen all over the place. Three models stand above the fray.

Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn and Sessilee Lopez are three young ladies not old enough to buy liquor (at least not here in the states) but are commanding alot of attention in a very adult business.

In the 70's & 80's black models were all over the runways. Yves Saint Laurent was known for his preference of using Black models in his shows. It was a trend popular among other European and American designers. At the time Calvin Klein, Donna Karan & Anna Sui all showed their collections with a multi-cultural mix of models often including asians and latinas.

In the 90's the supermodel was born. Out of this original group only one was black and that was Naomi Campbell. I believe this is when we started to see fewer Blacks on the runways. As the worlds attention focused on a small group of priviledged pretty faces, most of those being white, advertisers tastes began to reflect thoses of the masses. It soon came to pass the only Black faces being seen belonged to Campbell, Tyra Banks, Beverly Peele & Kiara Kabukuru.


Chanel Iman is probably the highest paid of this new guard of Black models. At least according to models.com . Ms Iman is building herself an impressive career. She's a favorite at Dior and Chanel runway and is an editorial darling. She can also be seen in ads for Gap, Lord & Taylor and Beneton.

Sessilee has become a recent favorite of mine. Maybe because we share the same chocolatey brown complexion! Something else I love about her is the spunky attitude she possesses. And when she's on the runway she has this quiet confidence that adds a sense of grace and opulence to anything she's wearing. Ms. Lopez can currently be seen in Barney's, Calvin Klein and Gap ads.

Jourdan Dunn is a separate beast altogether. Born in London, this brit exudes intelligence, confidence and elegance. I truly believe in the next few years Jourdan Dunn will become a worldwide household name. Jourdan was the first Black model to walk Prada in 10 years since Naomi Campbell. That is no small feat! Jourdan is all over the place. She can be seen in ads for Top Shop, Beneton & Gap.

Friday, March 27, 2009

American Vogue: Once You Go Black...





I was stunned, to say the least, when I saw Michelle Obama on the cover of Vogue's March cover. It made sense in a way considering how many covers our first family has graced. I figured Anna Wintour is jumping on the bandwagon in an attempt to quiet the magazines long standing criticism on its failure to represent Black women.

So imagine my surprise upon seeing April's cover featuring Beyonce. Wow! I didn't know what to think. I wondered: is this a sign of what's to come? Has American Vogue turned over a new leaf? Well, probably not.

Although the appearance of Black faces on two consecutive covers is unprecedented, I don't believe this marks a turning point for the magazine. Once inside, the old story continues - all the features and editorials are dominated almost entirely by white women. Truth be told, I do believe a conscious effort has been made to include more women of color. Unfortunately all other ethnicity's have been excluded. I can't recall one Asian or Latin model in either of the recent two issues. So much for progress.

I have a feeling this new interest in diversification is the aftermath of Italian Vogue's All Black Issue.
Fashion insiders are all too familiar with the eurocentric dominance and inherit racism within the industry. As a young model I remember being struck with the reality that black models simply don't get as much work as their white counterparts. There are of course exceptions but they are few and far between.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Dolce & Gabbana - Put On A New Face





As if Dolce & Gabanna didn't already have a full artillery for the uber-chic sex siren with tiny waisted, high hemmed fashion and seductive fragrances, they've decided to give her a face to match.

Super-makeup artist, Pat McGrath, was enlisted to create the new line of lipsticks and powders. Prices start around $29 for nail varnish and cap at $60 for foundation. If McGrath is able to weave the same magic into this line as she did for Armani, then Dolce & Gabanna will have a winner. The Armani collection is known for its sumptuous textures and rich hues and consists of a very edited selection of skincare, color and brushes. The Dolce & Gabanna lipsticks have names like "Devil" and "Drama" with eyeshadows christened "Guilty" and "Elegance".

Scarlett Johansson was chosen as the official spokesmodel and made appearences with the dynamic duo during fashion week in Milan for the launch. In this ad Scarlett wears a signature Dolce face, sans red lip. The smoldering, dark-rimmed eye, light apricot cheek and almost nude tangerine lip mark a clean start. Although some ads do show Johansson in the signature brick red lip we've come to expect.

The new line will be sold at La Rinascente in Milan, Selfridges in London and Saks Fifth Avenue here in the US.